2020. The year we lived through a pandemic. The year the world entered its first lockdown. Also, the year I began my next backpacking trip (pre-Covid months I must clarify!)
From January to March, I was on the road with G Adventures exploring the continent of South America. Working our way from Ecuador to Brazil, we explored Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina and Uruguay in addition to the goalpost destinations. Travelling by public buses, private coaches, internal flights, ferries and trains; we really had all modes of transport covered. This 65-day adventure brought together many solo travellers who all shared the same mindset – wanting to embrace the local area, not just visit it.
The Tour Company
Whilst I had travelled with their sister company Trek America the year prior – (unfortunately now ceased due to the pandemic) – it was my first time travelling with G Adventures. Not to give much away before we get into the bulk of this post, but I have since travelled a further 2 times with them, so would certainly consider it an overall positive experience!
What gives tour companies the upper edge when considering your own travel is not only the convenience (which I’ll come onto in a little bit), but also the connections they have with locals. G Adventures run the initiative ‘G for Good’ which gives back to the community through schemes such as their Planeterra projects. As stated on their website, their goal is to “preserve and conserve our world as the beautiful, lively, strange, and surprising place we all want to see” . They achieve this by providing travellers the chance to stay or visit homes and livelihoods in the likes of jungles, villages and islands. And in return, this helps maintain sustainability. Not only are we, as travellers, able to experience first-hand insights and understandings into other cultures, but we’re also made to feel integrated into them. In some cases we’re left to rely solely on our guide to translate languages; but in doing so, we have the opportunity to support local restaurants and utilise public transport.
Moving onto convenience; and this is where tour groups are worth their weight in gold. Especially when it comes to mammoth adventures like this one, the ease of simply being able to click ‘book’ and all that’s left is to arrange flights makes travel accessible for many. (It’s worth mentioning here that flights are something you can book with G Adventures too if you’re looking for a complete package, but I’ve always sourced mine independently). The itineraries are often pre-planned, but with many additional add-ons and free days, the option is there to make it your own. Many routes, including the one above, are designed in such a way that you can start and end wherever you chose fit – a few of us stayed the whole length; some we said farewell to in Buenos Aires; and some had even explored the Galapagos Islands before joining us at Quito.
The Hidden Gems
The beauty of travelling by road is the fact you pass through small towns and villages which would otherwise go unnoticed. It’s only when you travel deeper, and outside of tourist hotspots, that you find the places locals call home.
- Peruvian Beaches: Take Peru for example; many people would simply fly straight to Lima to explore the capital, then head to Machu Picchu for its heritage reputation. They’d miss out on the likes of Mancora and other Peruvian beaches. With hostels, eateries and a few bars along the strip, the area of Mancora feels a world away from the historic focal points of the Incas. The beach we spent time at was tranquil, clean and the perfect place to unwind; whether that be on a hammock or strolling down the sea front on white sand.
- Uruguayan Ranches: One of the perks with connections between tour group and locals are that of homestays. Whilst in Uruguay, our accommodation was a 2-night stay on a ranch in the middle of nowhere. This provided us time and space to simply live in the moment; making homemade empanadas in the kitchen, taking walks around the countryside, sharing stories with our newfound friends – the downtime we got to experience here was very much needed.
- Island Life: We were also treated to an island homestay in Lake Titicaca where the locals showed us their way of life on their family farms. Once off the boat, we were instantly met with a warm welcome followed by a friendly game of football; a homecooked meal; an outfit change into traditional dress; and some dancing to end the night. It’s these kind of experiences that show you the kindness of humanity.
The Wow Highlights
There’s no denying the reasons why some places are considered world famous; whether due to great historical reputation, cultural significance, or even just outstanding beauty. Most of the below are places you’ve probably seen photos of or at least heard mentioned.
- Machu Picchu: Machu Picchu is perhaps the main driving force for many when booking a South American trip and there’s 3 ways to access it: the Inca trail, the Lares trail, and the train from town. I opted for the extra stay in Cuzco followed by the train due to injury – (I didn’t have the confidence it wouldn’t resurface if I pushed myself to complete the trek) – but the journey by train was beautiful. Whichever journey you choose to take, you’re met with your group at the entrance to explore this historical site together. There’s a lot of walking on uneven paths and up and down steps around Machu Picchu; but equally plenty of places to stop and catch your breath if needed. We experienced all weathers the day we visited but it certainly didn’t take away the wonder and awe from the site. It’s one of those places that looks identical to the photos you see, as if stepping through a postcard.
- Amazon Rainforest: We entered the Ecuadorian side of the Amazon when we stayed here with local homeowners. As part of our homestay, the hosts welcomed us as if family. They provided homecooked meals and guided us through this extraordinary biome. As we trekked through rain-soaked mud, beneath waterfalls, and amongst such impressive trees, we couldn’t not stop at every opportunity to appreciate the nature. We were given talks on it’s flora and fauna, it’s threats from both humans and climate change, as well as the way these families built their home and community in such an environment.
- Salar de Uyuni: The salt flats of Bolivia was a place I had no prior knowledge of, and as such had no expectations on the drive up. But what a surprise it gives you when you step off the coach! I’ve seen nothing like it before, and doubt I will again. The magnitude at which the reflections hit, and the vast landscape of this geological phenomenon is something truly indescribable. We spent time perfecting photographs, playing trickery with props in fun videos, and learning about it’s history.
- Colca Canyon: Yet again, the Colca Canyon was a place I held no pre-existing expectations for. But that initial wow moment when you appreciate what’s around you is the moment you understand just why it’s such a popular hiking area. Located near Arequipa in Peru, Colca Canyon is home to many condors. Along the ridges of the hiking trails, you’re able to spot magnificent displays of these condors claiming the skies as their own. Seeing these giant birds soar across the open valleys made for excellent viewing.
- Iguassu Falls: Dampened slightly by the fact this was to be our last stop of the trip due to safety concerns and lockdowns forming, the day at Iguassu Falls was bitter sweet. But this is not to say we didn’t make the most of it. In fact I’d go as far as saying this was one of my favourite days. We were fortunate to see some amazing wildlife walking around here, before experiencing the forceful nature of the water as we headed closer to the falls. I also opted to take to the skies in a helicopter ride to get just that little bit closer to it’s magnitude. Next to the National Park is Parque das Aves which is home to a range of bird species. Being one of my favourite birds, watching the Macaw’s intelligence, personalities and vibrant colours shine on display like this was a really enjoyable experience.
The Mishaps
It wasn’t all smooth sailing, and we certainly had a unique experience given the synchronicity with the pandemic, but there were a few unexpected encounters I dealt with whilst on the road too.
- New Luggage: With any travel its always important to budget properly and factor in the need for emergency funds; and during my time in Peru, I’m glad I did. Travelling from a bus station, we used tuk-tuks to reach our accommodation for the night. Upon removing our luggage from the back of the tuk-tuk, I could see the strap of my rucksack had caught the vehicle wheel and resulted in a rip down one side. Needing to replace this, I waited until we arrived in a town with hiking stores, then went to search for my next trusty backpacking bag. A brand new red North Face backpack was what I chose from the very minimal selection this tiny store had, but its one I’ve used to travel with many times since!
- Unexpected Hospital Visit: The nature of these fast-paced tours mean you often only end up with only a couple of days at most in one area. And I unfortunately timed my time in Argentina with that of an illness and stomach pain. I was encouraged to visit the local hospital when we reached Buenos Aires – a lovely hospital I must add with very thorough testing and friendly staff! – but this meant I was to spend our one full day in this city in the presence of medical staff and sourcing a pharmacy. Something I am grateful for, however, is the fact the language barrier was no issue due to being on a group tour. My guide was on hand to translate everything from the results of my ultrasound scan to the side effects of my prescribed medication.
- COVID: I couldn’t not mention the pandemic when reflecting back on this trip, because as you could imagine it did become quite an issue when we neared the end of the tour in the month of March. For the most part I’d say we were perhaps a little oblivious to the outbreak which was happening across the world. It only truly became apparent once we arrived back in Argentina after spending days without Wi-Fi at the Uruguayan ranch. Sat in a roadside café waiting for our final night bus of the trip, we all connected to the internet and I cannot even begin to express the emotions that flooded that room. Receiving daily updates and emergency alerts from our tour guide whenever new information surfaced; then feeling the rush of urgency when packing our bags to catch the last bus to the border, are truly unforgettable moments!
Returning Home
As news came in about border closures, fellow travellers had no choice but to get the first plane home. One by one we all departed; our trip ending abruptly. After what I can only describe as a once in a life time adventure, I feel very fortunate to have made it to day 61 of our 65-day tour, considering how quickly things escalated. It goes without saying we all felt very lucky to make it back to our home countries safely. Back in England though, I had never seen London so quiet – the airport, the train station, the streets. It was crazy!
But then came dealings with claims and insurance; both from independent airlines and G Adventures themselves. And I couldn’t fault any of them. The customer service team at G Adventures were amazing, and my claim was very quickly turned around in a simple, hassle-free manner. I was awarded travel credits to put towards a future tour; and with a few trips already on my radar at that point, I knew I’d redeem them one day. Little did I expect them to go towards my expedition around Antarctica nearly 5 years later!
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